Thanks so much for my birthday wishes! It may seem that I spend my time romping around Europe, but it is only a temporary phase of good fortune (due to lapse in Februay 2006... maybe!). I used to refuse to even think about Xmas until after my birthday, which is precisely 12 days prior, but have now given up the struggle and this year decided I really wanted to visit Cologne's Christmas markets. Markets plural because there are six in total: so plenty of seasonal shopping opportunities.
The first port of call was the Dom market. On the first day, the two spires of the cathedral disappeared in the midst, otherwise they are unavoidable and you can't help but catch sight of them as you walk around the city:

There we slipped into a popular pattern, to eat a grilled bratwurst in a rye roll and drink Glüwein (I am so back onto eating a sensible diet for the next week!). Over the next few days we explored the other markets - one of which is on a boat and the other is a Medieval themed one, as well as this fairy tale one near the Three Kings Gate:
The top fairy tale was - unquestionably - Hansel and Gretel, the focus being on gingerbread houses and other gingerbread goodies:
Many of the markets sell you the glüwein in a special mug (Father Xmas obviously keeps leaving his boots littered around the place!)
We came back with about 3 different ones each; my favourite coming from the Medieval market, because the simple plain teracotta pot had a dragon impressed upon it. Cologne's idea of the medieval period involves a lot of dragons, quartz and other stones, woven baskets and mead. Visitors - notice the anachronistic SpongePants Bob on that kid's backpack? - get to mingle with Ye Olde Medieval Folk to watch the juggling and other entertainment:
The 'Ye olde Medieval Folk' wear wooden clocks, a variety of oddly shaped felt hats, woollens and coarse cloth. The place is atmospheric because it is lit by candle light and there is the smell of burning wood, baking bread and roast suckling pig floating in the air. I resisted buying the Dragon's Blood and stuck to such 'modern' fare as Xmas tree decorations from the other markets. Many stalls sold just about every type of ornament you could hope for, from wood to resin, but my favourites have always been the very fragile hand blown ones:
So many to choose from - did you ever think you wanted a pink squirrel on your tree?:
To my great surprise, there was even a yarn stall in Altmarkt with a wide range of German handspun and Alpaca from Ecuador (among a lot of other yummy stuff):
Now, how civilised is that! Uh - oh... that reminds me, I had better dash off and keep up with my Xmas knitting....